How to Use a 3D Printer to Repair Yellowed Arcade Plastic and Replace Aging Parts

Beat the yellowing: Fixing faded bezels and aging parts with a budget 3D printer

If you're tired of hunting down scarce OEM bezels or paying sky-high restoration fees, this guide shows how to scan, model and print replacement arcade parts—bezels, marquees, button housings—using affordable 3D gear in 2026. We'll go from phone photos to finished part, include material choices, print settings, post-processing and where to find files. Practical, tested, and tuned for hobbyists outfitting home arcades and small businesses.

Why 3D repair matters in 2026

Arcade restoration in 2026 is about authenticity that works. Supply chains are still thin for original plastics, and many classic parts suffer UV-induced yellowing, embrittlement and broken mounting bosses. Key trends that make 3D repair the smart approach this year:

• Smartphone photogrammetry and low-cost structured-light scanners now produce reliable meshes fast—great for one-off bezels.
• Consumer printers under $300–$450 have improved hot ends, better motion systems and are capable of accurate FDM parts; entry-level resin MSLA printers offer high detail for small components.
• Materials like ASA and UV-stable PETG, and industry-grade post-process coatings, make replacements long-lasting and colorfast.
• Communities and marketplaces (Printables, MyMiniFactory, Reddit r/cade) have matured—more licensed or community-sourced arcade files exist than ever.

“A scanned bezel plus a few hours of CAD and a weekend print can replace yellowed front panels without breaking the bank.” — a decade of cabinet restorations

What you'll need (budget friendly)

There are many workflows. Below is the minimal, tested kit that will cover most cabinets without high capital expense.

Hardware

• FDM Printer: Creality/Anycubic/Elegoo class: Ender 3 S1 / Anycubic Kobra 2 / Elegoo Neptune 4. These are commonly discounted on marketplaces like Weekend Stall kit vendors and ship quickly in 2026.
• MSLA Resin Printer (optional, for fine details): Anycubic Photon Mono X 6K or Phrozen Sonic Mini for button housings and logos.
• Scanner: smartphone photogrammetry is adequate. For quicker, accuracy-critical work buy a structured-light scanner like the Revopoint POP series (still affordable under $600 in 2026).
• Tools: calipers, Dremel or rotary tool, sanding supplies (grits 120–2000), heat gun, soldering iron for heat-set inserts.

Software

• Photogrammetry: Polycam (mobile), Metashape (desktop) or RealityCapture when you need pro results.
• Mesh editing: Meshmixer (free), Blender, or ZBrush Core for cleanup.
• CAD: Fusion 360 (free for hobbyists), Onshape, or SolidWorks if you have it—useful to add mounting bosses and precise tolerances.
• Slicer: Cura, PrusaSlicer, or Lychee Slicer (for resin).

Materials

• PLA — fast prototypes (not UV-stable).
• PETG — good balance of toughness and printability for bezels.
• ASA — best for exterior bezels: UV- and weather-resistant; needs higher temp and an all-metal hotend.
• ABS — durable and acetone-smoothable but needs an enclosure.
• Resin — for high-detail button housings and small rings.
• TPU — flexible gaskets or bump stops.

Workflow: Scan → Model → Print → Finish

Below is a step-by-step workflow you can follow the first time you restore a yellowed bezel or replace a cracked marquee surround.

Step 1 — Scanning: choose your method

Your choice depends on the part size and the level of detail required.

Smartphone photogrammetry (best for large bezels and marquees)

1. Clean the part. Remove dirt and grease so textures are salient.
2. Set up diffuse, even light—no hard shadows.
3. Capture 40–120 overlapping photos circling the part at multiple heights. Aim for 70–80% overlap.
4. Use Polycam or Metashape to generate a textured mesh. Keep the quality high but expect to do cleanup.

Structured-light scanner (best for accurate mounts and bosses)

1. Use the scanner per manufacturer steps—rotate the part and keep distance consistent.
2. Export a high-resolution mesh (OBJ/PLY).

Tips

• Measure critical dimensions with calipers (screen opening, screw locations). Photogrammetry can drift; use measured points as references.
• For glossy parts, spray a removable matte coating (temporary chalk spray) to improve scan fidelity.

Step 2 — Model and prep the file

Scan data is messy. This is where skill and patience make parts fit like OEM.

Mesh cleanup

• In Meshmixer or Blender, remove floating geometry, fill holes, and decimate if the mesh is huge.
• Use automated tools (MeshLab’s cleaning filters) then manual repair for screw holes and bosses.

Scan-to-CAD workflow

1. Import cleaned mesh into Fusion 360 as a mesh body.
2. Use measured caliper points to scale the mesh exactly.
3. Trace critical features and recreate them as native CAD bodies—screw bosses, back flanges, snap tabs—so you get precise threads and wall thicknesses.
4. Add a 0.2–0.5 mm clearance where moving parts interface; for snap-fit, test with 0.2 mm increments.

Design tips

• Screw bosses: Make bosses 2.5–3 mm wall thickness, 6–8 mm tall for heat-set inserts or M3 screws.
• Snap-fits: Use living hinges (TPU) or tapered catches—print tolerances vary, so design slightly oversized and test on PLA.
• Bezel depth: Keep the visible front face at least 1.5–2 mm thick for rigidity; add ribs on the back side to reduce print time while keeping stiffness.
• Marquee frames: Leave an internal flange for the acrylic and LED strip; design a diffuser channel for even backlighting.

Step 3 — Choose print method: FDM vs Resin

Match the method to the part and finish needed.

• FDM (budget printers): Best for larger bezels and marquees. Use 0.2–0.24 mm layer height for good speed/quality balance. Nozzle 0.4 mm. Walls: 2–3 perimeters; top/bottom thickness 0.8–1.2 mm. Infill 10–25%.
• Resin: Best for button housings, snap catches and parts with small lettering. Use 4–6K mono screens for best detail.

Material + printer recommendations (2026)

• Bezel — ASA on FDM: Hotend 250–260°C, bed 90–100°C, enclosure recommended. Use a brim and slow bridges. ASA is UV-stable and resists yellowing.
• Marquee frames — PETG: 230–250°C, bed 70–80°C. Use clear/translucent acrylic for the graphic and print the frame to accept it.
• Button housings — Resin: Standard durable resin, 0.05–0.05 mm layer height, post-cure 60–90s. Resin produces smooth fits for microswitches.

Step 4 — Post-processing: match the look

Post-process is where a printed part becomes “invisible” in a cabinet. For yellowing replacement, color match and finish matter most.

Sanding & filling

• Start with 120–220 grit to level print lines; move through 400–2000 for a satin finish.
• Use automotive spot putty or XTC-3D epoxy for heavy layer lines. XTC-3D also seals and brightens printed plastics.

Primer & paint

• Use a plastic-etch primer for PETG/ASA/PLA. Two coats of high-build primer will hide small defects.
• Color-match with automotive spray paint. Use RAL or Pantone references from OEM photos. For black bezels, high-gloss black lacquer is common; for textured plastics, use a matte topcoat.

Smoothing

• ABS: Acetone vapor smoothing yields a near-OEM finish—use a controlled chamber and strong ventilation.
• ASA: Acetone is less effective; sand and use primer/clear coat.
• Resin: Cure and sand; use fine polishing paste for a gloss finish.

Marquee light diffusion

• Use 3–5 mm opal acrylic for the facing; print a diffuser channel behind it to hold diffusing foam or polycarbonate film. Even LEDs and a reflective backed white tape create uniform illumination.

Step 5 — Install, test fit, and secure

Fitment is where measured CAD saved you time. Still, go slow.

• Test-fit before final paint. Check screw alignment and screen clearance.
• For repeated installs, use heat-set threaded inserts (M3) installed with a soldering iron—stronger and cleaner than tapping printed threads.
• When mounting over CRT or large monitors, ensure ventilation gaps match original specs to avoid heat buildup.

Case study: Replacing a yellowed Street Fighter II bezel

Here's a hands-on example with times and parts so you know what to expect.

• Part: Front plastic bezel (590 x 340 mm) yellowed from nicotine and UV.
• Gear used: Smartphone photogrammetry (Polycam), Fusion 360 for bosses and screw holes, Creality Ender 3 S1 (ASA), XTC-3D coating, automotive primer + satin black.

Workflow highlights:

1. 2 hours scanning and reference photos. Took caliper measurements of bezel lip and screw spacing.
2. 4 hours mesh cleanup + CAD rework (recreated 6 screw bosses, added 2 mm ribs on the back for stiffness).
3. 18 hours print time on Ender 3 S1 in ASA using 0.24 mm layers. 3 perimeters, 20% gyroid infill.
4. 3 hours post-process: sanding 220→800 grit, XTC-3D coat, 2 coats primer, 2 coats satin paint. Total finish time including drying: 24 hours.
5. Installation: heat-set M3 inserts and mount. Fit was within 0.3 mm tolerances—no trimming required.

Result: $40 in filament and consumables, 27 hours labor across three weekend sessions. The cabinet now looks original and resists further yellowing thanks to ASA.

Parts file sources and licensing (where to find good files)

Quality files accelerate your project. Always check the license if you plan to sell prints.

• Printables — broad user uploads, many arcade-friendly bezels and button housings.
• MyMiniFactory — curated, some paid premium files.
• Thingiverse — older resource, still has many classic arcade parts but check fitment tips.
• GrabCAD / Cults — good for measured CAD models.
• GitHub — small communities sometimes maintain complete cabinet CAD.
• Community hubs: Reddit r/cade, ArcadeControls forums often share measured files and fit notes.

Search tips: use specific queries like “MVS bezel print,” “Neo Geo marquee frame STL,” or “MDF bezel 594x340 STL.” Use filtering for file type and check comments for fitment feedback.

Troubleshooting and common pitfalls

• Yellowing returns: If you print in PLA, expect color shift under UV. Use ASA or paint-and-clearcoat to prevent re-yellowing.
• Dimensional mismatch: Photogrammetry scaling drift is common. Always measure critical points with calipers and scale the mesh in CAD to those dimensions.
• Brittle snap-fits: If they fracture, redesign with fillets, add more material to the tension area, or switch to TPU for flexible catches.
• Poor backlight uniformity: Add a thin diffusion panel (frosted acrylic) and use a reflective white backing to eliminate hot spots.

Safety, legal and authenticity notes

• When working near electrical components (monitors, power supplies), disconnect mains and take ESD precautions.
• Acetone and spray paint are hazardous—use proper ventilation and PPE.
• Be mindful of trademarks—printing exact marquees or logos for sale can raise IP issues; for personal restoration, it's widely accepted but not for resale without permission.

Advanced strategies and 2026 predictions

As of 2026, these advanced strategies will save time and elevate restoration quality:

• AI-assisted mesh repair: New tools integrated into photogrammetry suites automatically patch holes and propose ideal flattening or CAD re-creation lines.
• Color-matched filament blends: Small producers sell pre-matched filament kits to OEM colors—useful when you need exact tones.
• Hybrid production: Print an FDM outer bezel for structure and a resin overlay for high-detail logo areas, then chemically bond or use adhesives for a seamless look.
• Local microservice networks: By late 2025, many local makerspaces offer scanning and print-for-hire at reasonable rates—useful if you only need a single high-quality part printed in ASA or specialty materials.

Actionable takeaways

• Start with a phone scan and measure critical dimensions—don’t trust photogrammetry alone.
• Use ASA or PETG for functional, UV-stable bezels; resin for precision button parts.
• Design screw bosses for heat-set inserts and plan for 0.2–0.5 mm clearances for snap-fits.
• Prime and paint or use XTC-3D to hide layer lines and match OEM gloss/texture.
• Check Printables / MyMiniFactory and community threads for proven STL files and fit notes before modeling from scratch.

Final notes — preserve, don't just replace

Replacing parts is a practical solution when originals are brittle or lost, but when possible keep originals as archives. Scan and store high-resolution meshes and color textures—future restorers will thank you. Scanning is also a great way to document serial numbers and mold details for authenticity records.

Ready to restore your cabinet?

If you want a pro-grade result with minimal fuss, begin by scanning the part and posting your mesh to our community hub for feedback. Need a file or a print? Check our curated parts library and starter kits geared to budget printers in 2026.

Start your restoration now: Scan one part this weekend, upload the mesh, and we’ll walk you through the CAD adjustments and material choices. Join our mailing list for 3D-ready part packs and step-by-step templates designed for Ender/Anycubic-class machines.

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